I’ve never met a giant wave video I didn’t stop and watch. Maybe it’s the size and incredible power of the ocean juxtaposed with the strength, intensity, skill, and insanity of the humans riding and photographing it.
You know that saying “What’s the one thing you would do if you knew you could not fail?”? For me, this is it. But, in this life at least, I’ll have to settle for watching. And watching again.